RE.JU.VE.NATE

To make young or youthful again, give new vigor to.
To restore to an original or new state.

Causes of Aging

The above changes are influenced by intrinsic or genetic factors. These aging factors correlate highly with inherit and/or ethnic influences. Other major factors are environmental such as sun exposure, which causes photo aging as well as habits such as smoking and alcohol, which can alter the skin–causing acceleration in aging of the skin.

It is important to recognize the cause of aging in order to select the proper treatment. Most patients demonstrate more than one of these signs, however, they should be evaluated and prioritized according the patients needs and desires.

  • Inherent changes within the skin.
  • Facial muscles acting on the skin.
  • Loss of tissue elasticity.
  • Effects of gravity.
  • Soft tissue loss or shift and bone loss.
The Skin

The skin ages when the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) begins too thin, causing the junction with the dermis (inner layer) to flatten. Photo aged skin has a thicker epidermis (keratin), which is dead and irregular. There is increased water loss from the skin and a decrease of the sebaceous glands, which provides natural moisture to the skin. More abnormal cells accumulate in aged skin, especially if there is chronic sun damage, which can lead to pre-cancerous and cancerous lesions. Photo aging also causes chronic inflammation of the skin. Sun damage to the skin causes an increase of elastin that clusters into thick bundles. Collagen decreases as we age and the bundles of collagen, which gives the skin turgor, become looser and loses strength.

The skins capillaries and small blood vessels pull away from the skin, reducing blood flow. The more superficial vessels can thicken from sun exposure, reducing their capacity to nourish the skin. Telangiectasia (spider veins) appear on the surface of the skin, which are too superficial to provide nourishment. Loss of blood supply can also contribute to thinning of the hair and paler skin. This can be treated by a minimally invasive technique called IPL to reduce redness of the skin.

When the skin loses elasticity (ability to bounce back), it is less able to resist stretching. Coupled with gravity, muscle pull and tissue changes, the skin begin to wrinkle. The skin is less able to resist mechanical damage and heals slower from insult. Water loss and breakdown of bonds between cells also reduces the barrier function of the skin, which can cause the skins pore size to increases. Wrinkles are best treated by peels and lasers and can be filled with injections of filler substances.

Facial muscles

Facial muscles acting on the skin create dynamic lines. The most obvious dynamic lines are in the upper face. Glabellar lines lay between the eyebrows, which are caused from voluntary and involuntary frowning and are often accompanied by horizontal lines that appear across the bridge of the nose.

Horizontal dynamic lines come from holding up drooping eyelids or eyebrows. Crow’s feet,

dynamic lines at the corner of the eyes, appear after years of squinting, laughing, and smiling. Anti-wrinkle injections are extremely beneficial in these areas.

Loss of Elasticity and Soft Tissue Volume

Facial aging also is associated with a loss of tissue elasticity where the skin and underlying muscle can no longer rebound from the effects of gravity. Lasers and Radiofrequency devices such as Titan and Infini can tighten the collagen under the skin to improve texture and laxity. Despite recent media popularity, these devices tighten collagen and give a reasonable lift in many patients, but they cannot be a substitute for surgical facial rejuvenation if the concern is advanced.

As we age, one would think that the face gets fatter, with the appearance of jowls. Actually, the face loses volume, soft tissue and fat. The appearance of jowls and folds are from drooping of facial tissues and folding of areas like the jowls over areas where the muscles below are attached to the skin. As part of this reduction in soft tissue the face becomes hollower. There may also be loss of bone volume that may require replenishment. Dermal fillers help restore youthful facial fullness and contours.

Signs of the Aging Face and Body

MILD
Age: 20 to 30
Little to no wrinkling (even with animation) and no skin spots.
Minimal or no Makeup needed by these people for a clear complexion.
MODERATE
Age: 30 to 40
Early Wrinkling (especially with,motion).
Loss of smoothness.
Early appearance of brown lesions, slight yellowish discoloration or brownish cast with increased freckling.
Makeup needed for uniform appearance of the facial skin.
ADVANCED
Age: 40 to 50
More visible wrinkles.
Sallow, yellowish skin discoloration with telangiectasia (spider veins, reddened areas).
Obvious visible brown skin lesions.
Heavier makeup always worn to even skin colour but can accentuate deeper wrinkles by flaking.
SEVERE
Age: 50 to70
Wrinkling heavy.
Almost no pink colour at all.
Increased brown spots, becoming more elevated.
Heavy makeup worn that cakes and does not cover well.

Sun Safety

The best way to prevent sun damage, premature photo aging and skin cancer is to spend less time in the sun.

You can:

  • Be sun smart.
  • Plan to spend less time in the sun and be indoors or under cover when the sun is strongest between 10am and 3pm.
  • Seek shade when outdoors.
  • Wear protective clothing that covers your arms and legs as well as your body.
  • Wear a broad brimmed hat or legionnaire hat that shades your face and neck.
  • Wear wraparound sunglasses that meet Australian standards.
  • Apply broad-spectrum water resistant SPF 30+ sunscreen or sunblock as directed.
Using Skin Care

A good skin care routine consists of several products: cleansers, moisturisers, serums, gels and sunscreens or sunblocks. The order in which these products are applied is important to get the full benefits from them and to prepare the skin for a dermatological procedure. Here’s a quick guide to help you.

Day skincare regimen.

  • Cleanser.

Always start with a gentle cleanser. Wash your face to remove dirt, oil and other impurities. We do not recommend using soap on your face.

  • Exfoliate.

Exfoliation removes part of the upper dead layer of skin cells. This helps with better penetration of products that follow.

  • Topical prescriptions.

If your doctor has recommended any prescription strength topical products, apply them now on your clean and dry skin to help them better penetrate.

  • Serums/gels.

You should always start applying products with a thinner consistency first as thicker products may block the thinner ones from penetrating the skin and doing their job properly. For example, vitamin A and C serums should be applied at this stage.

  • Eye cream.

Eye cream and all other creams are applied after topical serum. Moisturiser. Next in the line is the moisturiser. Apply it at this stage as it will boost the efficacy of the other products by locking them in and moisturizing your skin.

  • Sunscreen or Sunblock.

Ideally, all sunscreens should be applied on bare skin before any other product is applied. This should particularly be the case with chemical sunscreens, if you are not on a corrective skin care program and if you are likely to spend time outdoors in the sun.

Chemical sunscreens need to interact with skin cells to be effective. Therefore you should apply them on clean and bare skin and wait for about 20 minutes till they are absorbed before using serums, moisturisers and other skin care products. On the other hand, if using a physical sunblock such as Zinc Oxide or Titanium Oxide, this is applied last.

What about physical sunscreens?

Physical blockers are products that contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These two ingredients work differently from chemical sunscreen agents, as they don’t need to be activated through a chemical reaction with the skin – they work as a protective shield. When the sunrays hit them, this shield bounces them off and away from the skin, thus protecting it from sun damage. For this reason, physical blockers can be applied after moisturiser.

What about reapplying sunscreen during the day, when you already have your moisturiser on?

By the time you need to put on your sunscreen again, most of your moisturiser will have already worn off, and won’t therefore interfere with the sunscreen. However, if you are spending time outdoors in the sun and are likely to sweat, you have to reapply your sunscreen every 2 hours after cleansing first.

At Zinc Clinic we recommend physical sunscreen (sun block).

How do I use sunscreen with makeup?

Apply a generous, even coat, approximately one to two teaspoons for face, neck, ears and décolletage. Let the sunscreen soak into the skin and dab the excess with tissue before applying makeup (preferably mineral makeup with SPF factor).

Many foundations and powders contain sunscreen, is it enough for daily protection?

Many foundations and other makeup products offer a built-in sun protection factor (SPF). We recommend not to rely upon them alone and to use them in conjunction with a proper sunscreen. Makeup does not provide enough coverage for it to be fully effective on its own. You need seven times the normal amount of foundation and 14 times the normal amount of powder to get the sun protection factor on the label!

Night skin care regimen
  • Cleanse.

Remove makeup, oils and dirt.

  • Mask.

Use only once or twice a week if required.

  • Prescription topicals.

As above.
NOTE: Products containing retinoids (Vitamin A) are best used at night as they can increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Sunlight can also degrade retinoids causing them to lose their efficacy.

  • Serum/gels.

As above.

  • Eye cream.

As above.

  • Night moisturizer.

During the night skin cells shed more easily and microcirculation is higher so the skin can heal itself. Applying a night moisturiser helps this process

Night skin care routine is much simpler and easier to follow as no sunblock is required. Basic steps are the same as the day routine.